Category: Strategic Management

India Continues to Attract Multinationals’ Research Dollars

A recent study by Bangalore-based management consulting firm Zinnov titled, “Operating Costs Benchmarking Study 2012,” suggests that India continues to be an attractive destination for multinational companies (MNCs) to set up their captive research and development (R&D) centers. According to the report, the average operating costs for MNC R&D centers in India has declined by 6% in U.S. dollar terms in fiscal 2011-2012 (FY12). The cost per employee was at US$40,604 in FY12 as compared to US$43,174 for FY11. The study, based on a survey among a sample of 55 R&D centers with over 37,000 employees across India, says that over the past five years, MNC R&D centers in India contributed to a net savings of over US$70 billion for the headquarters.

India has an installed R&D talent pool base of more than 210,000 engineers. Over the past five years, this has been growing at an average of 9% a year. At present, more than 870 multinationals have R&D centers in India, an increase from 836 in 2011. One driving force behind the growth is that while earlier India was seen primarily as a resource pool, increasingly it is also becoming an important market across verticals for the multinationals. In an earlier India Knowledge@Wharton article, Biswadip (Bobby) Mitra, president and managing director of Texas Instruments India, had said: “We see India as a big growth market. It has important top management attention, and we are betting big on it.”

According to Praveen Bhadada, director of market expansion at Zinnov, many of the MNC captive centers are doing high-value-addition work in India. “The Indian R&D ecosystem started 25 years ago based on the huge cost arbitrage it offered to headquarters. The fact that MNC R&D centers are now increasingly focused on innovation, leadership and better value addition and yet are able to deliver cost savings of over US$70 billion in the past five years is a significant advantage.”

The report notes that various factors have led to the drop in operating costs. These include optimization of the talent pyramid by hiring aggressively at the junior levels and increase in contract resource hiring, use of technology for collaboration and for limiting project-critical travel, consolidation of offices into single-facilities, reduction of professional services costs by building in-house talent and negotiating on third-party vendor fees. The weakening of the rupee vis-à-vis the dollar and the euro has also played a role. “Multinationals are increasingly looking to tier-2 cities where costs are lower,” adds Bhadada. “We are confident that India will continue to maintain its competitive advantage over other emerging markets for a long time.”

Another study from Zinnov on engineering R&D and the product engineering services segment in the country says this market is expected to grow at a 14% compound annual growth rate from US$14.7 billion in FY2012 to US$42 billion by 2020, outpacing the IT growth rate in the country. Pointing out that India is the leading offshore destination for product engineering services with 22% market share, the study titled, “Engineering R&D: Advantage India,” suggests that the “ecosystem connect between captives, service providers and start-ups gives India a unique advantage to innovate for local as well as global markets.”

Sundararaman Viswanathan, manager of consulting at Zinnov, says: “As relationships mature, service providers and customers will enter into pricing models based on market outcomes. Further, with emerging nations growing in importance as key markets, MNCs are set to leverage the inherent competencies in India to build products for local and global markets.”

At the same time though, the study also cautions Indian players against complacency. It notes: “The Indian service providers will face stiff competition from Russian and Chinese service providers who are building strong domain capabilities in ISV [independent software vendors] and telecom segments.”

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Why Going Private Won’t Solve All of Best Buy’s Challenges

(Eds. Note: Post has been updated to include comments from Wharton senior fellow and lecturer Stephen Sammut about the private equity financing of the deal.)

Best Buy’s already-uncertain future got murkier this week, with a proposal by founder and former chairman Richard Schulze to take the company private.

Schulze has said he’s in talks with private equity firms to help fund the deal, although he is reportedly at an impasse with the company’s board in moving toward making a formal offer. Best Buy has struggled recently due to the weak economy and customers increasingly turning to online sites, where prices for electronics are often cheaper.

“There are PE firms that specialize in troubled situations. Such firms are comfortable with companies like Best Buy,” says Stephen Sammut, a Wharton senior fellow and lecturer. “There is, however, a price to be paid. If PE funds can’t model for a successful exit based on the prevailing share price, they won’t do the deal. If the share price that they would have to pay fits, then [a deal] is possible. If I were a shareholder, I wouldn’t count on a premium.”

Earlier this year, the firm announced plans to close 50 locations by the end of 2012, lay off 400 workers and shrink the size of some of its stores in an effort to stave off further losses. At the time, however, Wharton marketing professor John Zhang predicted that “Best Buy’s struggle is just beginning,” noting that CDs and DVDs, which were once a staple for the retailer, are now increasingly being bought online. He also pointed out that mobile phones give customers the ability to immediately compare prices for expensive electronics, making these  customers less subject to sales tactics at individual stores.

Schulze was forced to resign from the chairman position after the Best Buy board discovered that he had failed to inform them about accusations of personal misconduct involving  former CEO Brian Dunn.

According to The Wall Street Journal, if Schulze is able to take Best Buy private (he already owns about 20% of the company) he plans to curb the recent downsizing efforts and focus on cutting prices to compete with online sites like Amazon.com. He also plans to  beef up in-store customer service to rival that found at Apple.

“Clearly, something has to be done at Best Buy in order to survive,” Wharton marketing professor David Reibstein says. “It is not obvious why the firm has to be taken private to accomplish this. The big question is whether the new strategy will succeed and for how long.”

Sammut notes that the concepts behind taking a company private apply in Best Buy’s situation. “Once private, with an infusion of new capital, management can develop new strategies and test them in the market without the glare of Wall Street looking at quarterly earnings,” he says. “This could be an example of private equity being a positive force in preserving jobs and serving as a means for companies to reorganize in a changing market environment.”

The challenge for Best Buy, Reibstein notes, is that customers will likely continue to use the stores as showrooms, coming in to look over expensive electronics in person, “getting tons of service and advice” from Best Buy’s sales staff and then making their purchases online. “The prices at Best Buy will have to be within range of online prices,” he adds.

But offering prices that low will be difficult if Schulze intends to retain the current size and number of stores and increase the level of customer service. “For service to be good, minimum-wage employees will not suffice,” Reibstein points out. “So it will be a challenge. That said, Nordstrom and others have thrived on this strategy through the Internet shift.”

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The Murdoch Factor in News Corp.’s Split Personality

Rupert Murdoch’s move to split News Corp. into entertainment and publishing businesses may unlock the value he seeks. But the big imponderable in that shift could be Murdoch himself and his tainted legacy, say Wharton management professors Lawrence Hrebiniak and John Kimberly.

“Murdoch overseeing both companies actually may be a drag on performance,” notes Hrebiniak. The phone hacking scandal involving News Corp.’s defunct newspaper, News of the World, and other group publications has “definitely hurt Murdoch’s image and perceived effectiveness as a leader,” he adds. The newspapers’ employees were accused of phone hacking and bribery in publishing stories between 2005 and 2007.

Hrebiniak says Murdoch’s “past mistakes still are fresh in many peoples’ minds.” He refers to criticism that News Corp. overpaid in its August 2007 purchase of Wall Street Journal publisher Dow Jones from the Bancroft family for $5 billion. “As head of both companies and CEO of the entertainment division, [Murdoch] could easily stifle and overwhelm the creative thinking, influence, and strategic autonomy of the chosen head of the publishing business when these capabilities or skills are most needed to turn the business around,” notes Hrebiniak. “Murdoch should take a step back and reduce his active management role.”

Murdoch could still oversee both businesses, Hrebiniak adds, but needs to appoint new CEOs for each of the two divisions, and become a hands-off executive. Those CEOs could then focus on strategic opportunities and challenges “with a fresh vision, without excessive Murdoch influence or interference.”

News Corp. also has to contend with the overhang of Murdoch’s legacy, and two key components of that are unclear, according to Kimberly. First, he wonders how history will view the man as a business leader given the stain of the hacking scandal and the questions it raised about Murdoch’s personal integrity. Second, how well would Murdoch’s empire fare once he is gone, Kimberly asks. “Arguably, the most important challenge facing any leader is building an organization that can thrive in his or her absence.”

The phone hacking scandal has “severely tarnished” Murdoch’s personal reputation, and its economic consequences will not be known for some time, Kimberly notes. The fallout from the incident also led Murdoch’s son and heir apparent James Murdoch to step down as chairman of British satellite and broadcasting company BSkyB (of which News Corp. owns a 39% equity stake) this past April.

Unshackled by the Murdoch style and legacy, News Corp.’s split will bring some obvious benefits, experts say. For one, it allows for separate strategic attention to the two very different businesses of entertainment and publishing. “Each business can focus more directly on its own industry forces, competitive problems and opportunities,” Hrebiniak says.

Hrebiniak also suggests that with a more sharply focused entertainment business after the split, Murdoch could revive his attempt to complete his ownership of BSkyB, which is the biggest pay TV broadcast company in the U.K. and Ireland. The phone hacking scandal forced Murdoch to withdraw his bid last year to buy the remaining equity in the firm. Hrebiniak points to the immediate increase in the stock value of both News Corp. and BSkyB shares after the split announcement as indicative of the value investors see in the move and what might follow.

But News Corp. still faces major challenges after the separation, which is expected to be formalized over the next year after regulatory approvals. Hrebiniak notes that not all of its entertainment businesses have high growth prospects and profitability. The company’s cable business is doing well — much better than broadcast and satellite TV. “But the split won’t guarantee increased growth and profitability for the entertainment side of the business; serious strategic and execution issues won’t be overcome automatically,” Hrebiniak says.

In steering the newly separate publishing business, News Corp. will need major efforts to reduce costs and avert further slippage in already thin profit margins, according to Hrebiniak. He doesn’t see that as an easy task, given the many competitive challenges to publishing.

The split, in fact, raises more questions about the future of News Corp.’s publishing business than the entertainment arm, according to Kimberly. He notes that the publishing business is the “historical core” of Murdoch’s empire, and that he is understandably very attached to it. “By spinning it off, and by painting an optimistic picture of its future, he is playing a very risky game,” says Kimberly. “If he wins, his judgment is vindicated and some reputational capital will be rebuilt. If he loses, he loses big.”

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Birla’s Latest Buy Signals a Wave of Consolidation in Indian Retail

Kumar Birla’s last big splash was when he took over U.S.-based aluminum sheet maker Novelis in 2007 for $6 billion. There have been other takeovers since then — the U.S.-based Columbian Chemicals in 2011 for $875 million and Swedish pulp and bio-refinery company Domsjo Fabriker for $340 million the same year. On the domestic front, there were a couple of small acquisitions — Kanoria Chemicals, for instance. But Birla hasn’t really made big news at home since his unsuccessful raid on engineering major Larsen & Toubro several years ago.

That phase seems to be over. On April 30, group company Aditya Birla Nuvo announced that it was acquiring a controlling interest in the Future Group’s Pantaloon Format, a division of Pantaloon Retail India Ltd. Pantaloon Format, which has 65 stores in 35 cities, will be first de-merged from Pantaloon Retail. Aditya Birla Nuvo already has Madura Fashions in its stable with brands such as Louis Philippe, Allen Solly, Van Huesen and Peter England. “This acquisition will catapult Aditya Birla Nuvo to the pole position in the branded fashion space in all segments and [give the company] a pan-India presence,” Birla says.

For the cash-strapped Kishore Biyani, the CEO of the Future Group (as the Pantaloon Group is now called) the deal comes at a crucial time. He has been selling other assets, too. For Birla, this is a bargain. The economy has slowed down and stock prices are at their lowest point in several months. Pantaloon Retail, for instance, is around Rs. 130 (a little more than $2) against a 52-week high of Rs. 364. The share perked up after the deal was announced. Birla will invest $300 million in an arrangement involving both equity and convertible debentures.

The crisis in Biyani’s empire is an indication of the troubles facing India’s retail sector. This was supposed to be the big new area for jobs and growth. Many malls opened in recent years on the assumption that the government would allow foreign direct investment (FDI) in multi-brand retail. But opposition political parties and even some members of the ruling coalition in Delhi have kept this critical reform at bay. The sector is now looking to consolidation as a means of survival. Businesses with money are sniffing around for potential purchases. According to bankers, several smaller companies are on the block.

For Birla, this is a way of writing a new mission statement for the group. Even today, around 80% of its turnover comes from commodities. This is an inheritance from Kumar’s father Aditya Birla. The other 20% — in services — is from Kumar Birla’s own contribution and inclination. Commodities will not fade away. But services will grow in importance in the years to come, experts note.

Close on the heels of the Pantaloon buy, on May 18 Birla picked up a 27.5% stake in Living Media India. This Aroon Purie-owned group publishes leading newsweekly India Today and a range of other owned and franchised titles (Business Today, Reader’s Digest, Cosmopolitan and Harvard Business Review, among others). It also has several new-generation media interests. In a statement to the Bombay Stock Exchange (group company TV Today is a listed entity), Living Media chairman Purie said that together with Birla, the firm will be able to “aggressively address the current and future potential of the media business, which is at a tipping point.” Added Birla: “The media sector is a sunrise sector from an investment point of view.”

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Dunkin’ Donuts Goes Desi in Delhi

When Starbucks announced that it was coming into India as part of a partnership with the Tata Group, there was a lot of excitement in the country’s coffee shop segment. The first Starbucks outlet is scheduled to open in August. Meanwhile Dunkin’ Donuts, another U.S. coffee and baked goods chain, beat the Seattle-based company to the punch: On May 8, the Canton, Mass.-based Dunkin’ Donuts opened its first restaurant in India, in city center Connaught Place in Delhi. “We are confident that Indian consumers will love our format and our product offering,” says Dev Amritesh, chief operating officer and president of Dunkin’ Donuts India.

Cafes have the potential to become big business in India. The entire restaurant sector is growing rapidly at around 25% annually, according to a National Restaurant Association of India (NRAI) white paper. But the cafe segment is growing faster at 30% to 35%. This is even before the entry of Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts, which should catalyze further demand. “Cafes or coffee shops are a relatively recent phenomenon in India,” notes the NRAI paper. “There are more than 1,500 coffee shops in the organized segment, spread all over the country and of which 50% are accounted for by just two companies [Café Coffee Day and Barista].”

Dunkin’ Donuts, however, aims to be more than a coffee shop. Its branding in India is Dunkin’ Donuts & More, a designation that is unique among the 32 countries (10,000 restaurants) where the company currently has a presence. “We believe Dunkin’ Donuts will occupy the sweet spot in between cafés and quick service restaurants, as we offer elements of both,” says Amritesh. “[It has] a great all-day menu of food and a fantastic range of beverages, along with a chilled out, modern and relaxed environment.”

The “& More” in the positioning statement indicates that the company has learned from the experience of other international chains that have previously tried to break in to the Indian market. The world over, Dunkin’ mainly features donuts on its food menu, with a few breakfast options. In India, however, there will be a whole range of sandwiches and a large number of new flavors in donuts — mango and lychee, for instance.

When Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) came into the country in 1995, it arrived with an identical menu to what was available elsewhere. Kellogg launched its cold breakfast cornflakes in India, unmindful of the fact that the nation’s consumers preferred their breakfast hot. Kellogg languished for more than a decade. KFC ultimately had to set up shop, in part due to anti-multinational agitation (It has reopened since.)

By contrast, McDonald’s quickly adapted to local palates. It introduced items that fit local palates, like the McAloo Tikki (a potato burger minus meat and even onions). These items are now being added to the fare in other countries. By adding the variety — sandwiches, milkshakes, smoothies and other yet-to-be-decided snacks — Dunkin’ hopes to hit the ground running.

Dunkin’ Donuts comes to India in a joint venture with Jubilant FoodWorks. The Indian partner already has a similar agreement in place with Domino’s Pizza. As of December 2011, the company had a network of 439 Domino’s Pizza stores. Dunkin’ is looking at opening 10 stores in 2012-2013 with another 100 the next year.

The two partnerships complement each other, notes Jubilant chairman Shyam Bhartia. “India is a key strategic market with immense potential for growth in the food service business,” Bhartia said at the launch. “Our team has been working very hard over the past year to come up with a differentiated value proposition and the result has been very gratifying.” Indians are now ready for a new menu and a new lifestyle he said.

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After a Poor Outlook, Infosys Seeks Ways to Dump the Slump

Infosys has always been one of the most watched companies on the Indian stock markets. When the company’s annual unaudited earnings results are announced at its headquarters in Bangalore, TV crews and journalists from all over the world often fight over the placement of cameras and the right to ask questions.

When the 2011-2012 results were unveiled on Friday, there was a sense of disbelief. Infosys is accustomed to under-promising and over-delivering: This time, it was just the opposite. Against a fourth quarter (January-March) revenue guidance of $1,810 million, the company achieved only $1,771 million. This was a 1.9% drop sequentially. Net income after tax was $463 million, a tepid quarter-on-quarter growth of 1.1%. The Bombay Stock Exchange Sensitive Index (Sensex) fell 238 points (1.37%) and Infosys itself was down Rs. 346.75 (around US$7) or 12.61% following the announcement. “We will be lowering our estimates and target price for the stock,” says Rajat Rajgarhia, director of research at Motilal Oswal Financial Services.

Other metrics are looking similarly dismal. The company’s guidance for 2012-2013 is for growth between 8%-10%, below the National Association of Software and Service Companies’ (Nasscom) industry growth projection of 11%-14%. Tata Consultancy Services (TCS), India’s largest IT firm, is due to announce its results on April 23. Its guidance is projected to be better. According to a report by Enam Securities, Tata management will be “comfortable with a ‘mid-teens’ revenue growth in 2012-2013.”

Probably more pertinent to Infosys is the fact that Teaneck, N.J.-based Cognizant, which displaced Wipro as India’s third-largest IT firm last year, is potentially in a position to unseat Infosys from the number two spot. Cognizant has been growing at around 40% and expects to maintain at least 30% growth levels going forward. India’s IT industry is a cutthroat place and image matters: If investors start deserting Infosys, its share price would likely decline further and analysts may downgrade the company, which could impact acquisition and retention of clients.

Infosys officials say the firm missed the guidance due to volatility in the market. “Never before have we seen such high volatility in clients’ spending decisions,” chief financial officer V. Balakrishnan says. “Things can change by the day. This is the new normal.” Infosys CEO S.D. Shibulal echoed Balakrishnan’s comments. “We are executing on our Infosys 3.0 strategy, which is meant to deliver high-quality growth in the medium to long term,” Shibulal notes. “We are making investments and have put in place a structure to deliver on this strategy.”

In another negative indicator, Infosys has frozen salary hikes this quarter. The company had recruited 45,000 people in 2011-2012, but the target for this year is lower at 35,000. But this is not as big a drop as it seems. Last year, 25,826 employees quit the company so the net addition was only 19,174. Infosys officials say that the departures were mainly in its business process outsourcing (BPO) arm, where attrition rates are very high across the industry. At TCS, meanwhile, the gross hiring target for 2012-2013 is 66,000, according to Enam Securities.

The earnings news has raised some questions about management and corporate governance at the company. On the positive side, the Infosys has inducted senior banker and ICICI Bank stalwart K.V. Kamath as non-executive chairman. The public face of the company for many years — N.R. Narayana Murthy — continues as chairman emeritus.

Infosys was set up in 1981 by seven entrepreneurs led by Narayana Murthy, who was CEO of the company for 21 years until he stepped down in 2002. He was succeeded by Nandan Nilekani, one of the original seven. Two of the co-founders left along the way. Another one retired last year. Two others — S. Gopalakrishnan and current incumbent Shibulal — have followed Nilekani to the CEO seat. When the going was good, nobody questioned this arrangement. Now that things are turning a trifle sour, some observers are wondering whether all of the founders — or even four of the seven — were really qualified to lead. Kamath, whose mandate is to look into such HR issues, will be charged with finding an answer.

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A New Chinese Export — Jobs

Bucking the decades-old wave of offshoring of manufacturing jobs to China, other parts of Asia and Mexico, GE said it would move jobs back from these countries to the United States, where it will build water heaters.

Jeffrey Immelt, GE’s chairman and CEO, notes that his decision to invest $1 billion in GE’s appliance business in the U.S. is “as risky an investment as we have ever made”. Yet, this brand of “re-shoring” – returning to the U.S. some manufacturing jobs that were earlier shipped overseas — is expected to pick up over the next several years as momentum shifts somewhat away from  automatic decisions by U.S. manufacturers to operate lower-cost plants overseas. Factors encouraging this reversal include sharply rising relative manufacturing costs in China, accentuated by stagnant U.S. wages and productivity gains, steady renminbi appreciation, steeper transportation costs as oil prices rise and costlier maintenance of longer supply chains.

Hal Sirkin, a senior partner and managing director at the Boston Consulting Group, noted in this recent Knowledge@Wharton interview, that “wages are rising very quickly in China, somewhere on the order of 15% to 20% a year and maybe even higher. The renminbi … is rising at 4% a year.”

In February, GE Appliances announced it was opening a water heater plant at Appliance Park in Louisville, Ky., the first new plant at the site in more than 50 years. Eventually, GE plans to invest $800 million in Louisville, part of a $1 billion commitment to create 1,300 new jobs in the U.S. by 2014. Many of those jobs are being shifted from a water heater plant in China. In addition to standard manufacturing jobs, GE says the new facility will create “hundreds of highly skilled salaried jobs in fields like engineering, industrial design and manufacturing.”

So how big a trend might this re-shoring turn out to be? “Some jobs might return to the U.S., but not millions,” says Wharton management professor Marshall Meyer. “China now has an advantage in manufacturing infrastructure — both physical and human — for example, the availability of engineers. And countries like Vietnam and Indonesia will draw manufacturers seeking low-cost labor. Some Chinese companies are already outsourcing to Vietnam and Indonesia,” among other countries.

Wharton management professor Mauro Guillen points out that “Yes, because of rising wages and currency movements, Chinese costs are rising. And wait until the dollar takes a real hit. But keep in mind that other locations are now becoming attractive, for example, Vietnam and Bangladesh.”

Meanwhile, the evolving, global manufacturing landscape is turning up some valuable lessons regarding “the hidden costs of global supply chains, including their susceptibility to catastrophic collapse – such as in late 2008 — and to fuel prices today,” Meyer points out. Ocean shipping is one good example: “The carriers are all losing money, some [of them] billions, due to overcapacity and the high cost of bunker oil, which may go higher when they are forced to switch to low-emissions fuel. Inevitably, as in the airline industry, there will be industry consolidation reduced capacity, and much higher shipping prices.”

For Sirkin, though, the trend seems clear. “I think we’re still in the early stages. You see big companies like National Cash Register — NCR — that was manufacturing their ATMs in China for the U.S. and is now manufacturing in Columbus, Ga. You see Ford adding jobs into its plants. I think they committed to 12,000 jobs …. It’s also smaller companies. So Farouk Systems, which makes hair dryers, has moved 1,500 jobs back from China to the U.S. You see Coleman, the manufacturer of water coolers, starting to build water coolers in the U.S. ….”

And it some cases, it appears, companies are moving production back to the U.S, because they no longer want their designs and processes getting copied. Notes this Chicago Tribune article: Peerless Industries  “decided in 2009 to buy equipment to make in-house its aluminum mounts that are used to fix flat-panel televisions to walls. The move followed nearly a decade of dealing with Chinese companies copying their products, said Michael Campagna, the company’s president and chief operating officer.”

For further reading from Knowledge@Wharton Today: China’s Sinking Competitiveness

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Post-IPO, John Idol on What’s Next for Michael Kors

The decision to transition the business behind Michael Kors’ fashion empire into a public company was a tough one for its CEO, John Idol.

“I didn’t want to go public,” Idol said during a speech at Wharton yesterday organized as part of Penn Fashion Week. “I’ve run four public companies, and the hardest thing to do when you run a public company is to not change the way you’re running the business because you have investors and, more importantly, Wall Street looking over your shoulder.”

But Idol and the firm’s leadership team ultimately decided to make the leap. The company debuted on the New York Stock Exchange in December, pricing its shares above estimates at $20 each, raising $944 million. The shares have more than doubled in value since, and last week the firm announced that it would sell more than $1 billion in stock in a secondary offering.

Michael Kors made the move with in order to build long-term value into the brand. “The hardest thing to say when you go public is that you’re going to do the right thing for the business over the next three to five years,” said Idol, who was previously an executive at Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Kaspar A.S.L. “Some investors don’t want to hear that. They want to hear what you’re going to do over the next quarter and the next month. But I guarantee that if you run a public company like that, you’re going to fail.”

When Idol and partners Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou acquired the business in 2003, they, along with Kors, who acts as chief creative officer, had the goal of building it from a brand with a “cult following” to one that graced the closets of a global and multigenerational clientele. “[Michael Kors] was a $20 million business in 2004,” Idol said. “It was losing money and probably would have gone out of business had we not bought it.” The company now has a market cap of $8.6 billion. For the fourth quarter of 2011, it reported $373.6 million in revenue, a 68% increase over same time a year earlier, and net sales of $199.4 million, an 82.8% jump from 2010.

Michael Kors achieved his initial success designing apparel, but the company’s relatively rapid growth came from an unexpected source: accessories. “We looked for the white space in the market,” Idol said in an interview before his speech. “The pure luxury accessories market was a crowded field with Prada, Louis Vuitton and others, but in the accessible luxury market there was Coach and not a lot of other competitors.” Idol added that today, around 70% of Michael Kors’ business comes from selling shoes, bags, eyewear and watches.

The company bills itself as a purveyor of jet-set luxury, and Idol says the team always keeps in mind its target customer. “Michael has a simple saying. When I say, ‘Michael, who is our target customer?’ he says, ‘She’s 35 years old,’” Idol noted. “I ask him, ‘How do you know?’ and he says, ‘Any woman who is 50 wants to be 35 and any woman who is 25 wants the wardrobe of a 35-year-old.’”

Today, the company includes the signature Michael Kors line that walks the runways each season, competing with brands such as Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana, and the more affordable Michael line. In Michael Kors stores, $2,000 handbags share the display cases with purses priced at $200 or $300. Addressing the Penn audience of mostly 20-somethings, Idol noted that, “You guys will go into H&M or Zara and buy a top and buy a jean, but you’re also going to call your mom or dig deep into your savings and try to get a Gucci bag. You’re going to mix high and low, and you don’t feel embarrassed that you bought a Forever 21 top.”

Unlike many retailers that have reached a saturation point in the U.S. market, with around 180 or 190 stores nationwide (out of 230 globally), Michael Kors still has room to grow, Idol said. “When we get to 500 stores in the U.S., that will be an opportunity to have some dialogue. Coach is there today — they’re doing $2.7 billion or $2.8 billion in the U.S., and they’re probably not completely saturated in the U.S. because the handbag business, the accessory business, continues to grow. When you look at the market and see they’re doing $2.7 billion to $2.8 billion and we’re doing $1 billion in the U.S., then I think we’re at about the halfway point. It shows you can maintain a brand’s integrity and still grow to that size.”

The company is also eyeing more expansion into global markets, but Idol stressed the need for a measured strategy. “China today for us is the most expensive market to hire people in. Why? Because everybody wants to go to China, and for the mid- and upper-tier executives, it’s a field day. Secondly, real estate is insane. Why? Because everybody’s going there. Prices are through the roof, and the logistics are not easy. It’s not like the U.S. and Europe where the logistics have been set for years and years and years. This is the wild, wild West.”

In addition, brand awareness can’t be built overnight. “In China or Japan, people don’t understand what Michael Kors is; it literally means nothing,” Idol said. “It’s a very challenging thing, a very expensive thing, to do and you have to be patient and have the vision of 10 years. We’re a wealthy company, we have the money to do it and we have to do it because to be global we must undertake that endeavor. But you can’t enter a country and think you’ll be successful just because you’re a big, bad American company.”

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